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St Vincent and the Grenadines

 
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St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/26/2013 9:36:04 PM   
barata


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SHH!! Don't let anyone else in on the secret. This place is gorgeous! The weather was a constant 27 degrees - that's about 82 for y'all. Day in, day out, all night long. We had a couple of showers, one deluge that woke me up when my feet started getting wet from rain drops coming in the hatch, but nothing that lasted very long. The water temp was about the same as the air temp. And the people are fantastic - kind, giving, appreciative, they love their home and want you to love it too!
It's a long haul from Calgary, we left at midnight for Toronto, had a couple of hour lay over there, long enough to grab an expensive breakfast, then on to Barbados. We got there mid-afternoon and had planned on a layover so we didn't end up in a strange place with only 1/2 our wits about us. Turns out we would have been fine but we enjoyed the stopover anyway.
Thanks to TA I found a decent and reasonably priced hotel ($100 US) right on the edge of St Lawrence Gap, close to bars and restaurants and right on the water's edge.





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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/26/2013 9:49:57 PM   
barata


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We had some time before dark to wander around, caught a great sunset and found a waterfront restaurant just across the bay from our hotel - Pisces, expensive but very attentive service, separate waiters for water, drinks and food. We started out with sharing a ceviche, but it was so good we had to order another. Then the most famous Bajan dish, flying fish. This was done kind of upscale with capers and frou frou garnish. Really, really delish!



The next morning we walked the beach before heading back to the airport for our 30 minute flight to Kingstown St Vincent. Thought about staying downtown to catch a little of the culture but we don't get to spend near enough time by the sea living here in the mountains, so again I chose an ocean front hotel, the Mariners on Villa beach. The gave our ocean view room to someone else and when I complained the offered to send us to a fancier place but it was on another island with no phone and we had to connect with our sailing buddies so instead they reduced our room rate by 1/2! Great deal!





The French Veranda restaurant is attached and I had a very tasty tuna tartar for dinner. Sorry, ate it too fast for food porn photos!


Our friend and captain had been here with another group a couple of weeks before so had scoped out the best spots, and made some great connections; a taxi company and a guide for the Soufriere volcano! Great idea to get a little exercise before getting on a boat for a week. The government insists on a guide and we had the delightful Bonya, an interesting rasta man with a wonderful outlook on life - and someone who knows the value of an education, so he's sent his daughter off to university! He made the climb in flip flops.







Dinner that night was at VeeJays in downtown Kingston, a local hangout, cheap excellent local food. I had curried conch, John had conch roti, and we all had lots of rum. Followed up with a little karaoke downstairs. They treated us very well, an experience to be repeated where ever we went in the Grenadines. "Thank you for coming. We enjoyed having you. You are welcome to come back anytime. Have a wonderful time in the islands."

Next day was shopping, $500 EC for food and $500 EC for beer, wine and rum. We did have to reprovision the rum and wine, and stopped at the crazy fresh market on Bequia Island for fruit - locally grown oranges, passion fruit, limes, mangos, soursop (OMG, pudding encased in a rind, best fruit in the world!!) tomatoes, cucumbers, and the salesmen were relentless. We had to keep telling them NO - we only want 6 tomatoes. NO!! Not so many passion fruit - it was quite hysterical and we left with about 20 lbs of produce for $27.
The sailing - winds were constant, seas were reasonable, weather was fair aside from a 15 minute shower.









< Message edited by barata -- 2/26/2013 10:22:06 PM >


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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 6:09:01 AM   
ChrisandCindy


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Nice, how was the snorkeling?

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 6:24:40 AM   
BeachBilly


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Can you provide a "prequel" please? How does one go about planning a trip like this?

Can't wait for more!

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 6:29:32 AM   
uphillklimber


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From: Bryant Pond, Maine
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Hey!!! that boat looks real familiar!!! Can't wait for more!

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 6:45:45 AM   
nipper


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Sounding good and looking beautiful! I', looking forward to more.

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 7:06:33 AM   
crunch


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I want more. Love the shot of the crazy mujer driving the yacht!

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 8:02:25 AM   
Jamie

 

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Sounds like a great vacation so far, love sailboats. Did a bareboat charter once in the Abacos chain of the Bahamas with another couple, one of the best vacations I have ever taken.
One of the sailing magazines (cannot remember which one now) has an issue every February (or used to) with a special insert on chartered boats with either bareboat or crewed. That is how I found the outfit we used, we went in late October and early November and got two weeks for the price of one.
Looking forward to more, thanks barata
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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 8:45:44 AM   
Bosco


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Wow. You are making me long for the islands, Barata.

Looking forward to more Trip Report and Pics.

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 12:30:39 PM   
longing4sun


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Nice! The Grenadines is where I WANTED to go on our honeymoon 11 years ago, but my husband-to-be talked me into this hole in the wall place I'd never heard of called Akumal. 7 trips later I seem to have forgotten that there are other beautiful places on earth. Thanks for the reminder!

< Message edited by longing4sun -- 2/27/2013 12:31:09 PM >


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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 12:48:04 PM   
SchnauzerDog


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Great start. Looking forward to this report, Captain Barata. It appears that you were having a lot of fun helming the ship.
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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/27/2013 1:09:18 PM   
Seagoat


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Looks wonderful Barata....thanks for the pics and commentary! Can't wait to see more.

Cheers,
Seagoat

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 2/28/2013 10:04:57 PM   
barata


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The snorkeling that we did was OK - in some instances fantastic. Tobago Cays is a group of uninhabited islands near Myreau
(one of my favorite inhabited islands, home of Robert Righteous and De Youth International Bar and Restaurant). It's a marine park home to hundreds of turtles. Every few minutes we'd see turtles surfacing near our boat. And there's a roped off area with lots of small turtles hanging about eating turtle grass near the shore of one of the islands. I'll bet there were at least 30 1-2' guys in an area about the same size as the roped area in front of Lol Ha. We jumped off our boat and swam a few hundred yards to some coral near another small island, literally hundreds of small fish hanging about including lots of small squirrel fish who weren't camera shy at all. I spotted a porcupine fish. Then another. Then another. All within 10' of each other. We saw 6 honeycomb cowfish all in a group.






I would have loved to spend another day or 2 exploring, but this WAS a sailing trip after all so we had to up anchor and head off to another island. We found a ship wreck just off the bow of our boat where we were moored on Union Island, lots of small fish hanging around here too. We tried another snorkel spot marked on the map on Bequia but the swells were up and viz was bad. We didn't get a lot of photos unfortunately. Being on a boat made it very difficult to charge batteries.

< Message edited by barata -- 2/28/2013 10:14:59 PM >


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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/1/2013 7:05:16 AM   
crunch


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What did your berth/cabin whatever it is on a sail boat look like?

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/1/2013 10:02:59 PM   
barata


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quote:

ORIGINAL: crunch

What did your berth/cabin whatever it is on a sail boat look like?

Here's the link to the boat specs. Basically in the "berth" there's a bed and at the end of the bed is a place to stand upright with a closet and the bathroom "head" door opposite. So you've got about 3 square feet to stand in. Roomy enough with storage for bits and bobs along a rail on either side of the bed. We won the draw and chose the "v" berth at the front of the boat which is roomier and more private, but you get a lot of noise from the ropes attached to the mooring ball, sounded like drums one night. The 2 other couples had berths adjacent to each other with less storage space and less privacy. Quieter sleep. I wore earplugs, John used rum as an ear anesthetic.

http://www.viyachts.com/bareboats/tmm/beneteau43.php

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/1/2013 10:24:52 PM   
barata


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From: a few degrees north of Akumal
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Here I am being the galley slave. Kitchen consists of 3 burner stove with oven, fridge that really works as an icebox - bag of ice per day to keep things cool. Looks pretty roomy in this photo! That's our bedroom door right next to me. I compare it to RV'ing, but I don't know of many RV's with ensuites.


Apparently it was a little wavy that day : )

< Message edited by barata -- 3/1/2013 10:26:27 PM >


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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/1/2013 11:09:26 PM   
barata


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The "prequel" for Beachbilly....
A couple of years ago we reconnected with our "best man" who we hadn't seen much of since his wedding a year or so after ours. So it had been a while since we'd spent time with him. Anyhow he filled us in on how he'd taken up sailing (after his divorce.) Our 30th anniversary was coming up and sailing seemed like an interesting way to celebrate so with his credentials he was able to charter a sailboat in the British Virgin Islands and off we went. A couple of years and a few navigational and blue water sailing experiences later and he's able to charter boats in more challenging locales, like SVG. Lucky for us he was looking for folks to fill a boat and we signed on.
This is all new to us, but apparently there are many companies who will rent boats, either motor or sail, to people who qualify. If you don't have the qualifications, you can rent a boat with a captain for a couple of extra c notes per day. And you can add a cook if you really want to be pampered.
The boat we chartered was a monohull sailboat 43' long with 3 cabins, each with it's own bathroom. Bathrooms are of the "****, shower and shave at the same time" model. Sink tap converts to shower head and there's a drain in the floor with an electric pump to take away the extra water. Works well for cleaning too!
Being as how it was a vacation and we LOVE all inclusive's, we elected to purchase only lunch and breakfast foods and eat dinner out. Charter companies will provision the boat for you, but we know how to grocery shop so the day we were to leave port some of us went shopping while the sailors in the crowd went over the boat with the charter company to make sure we had the correct equipment to make the boat go forward (and backwards) in the water. We spent $500EC ($190 US or CDN) for a week on groceries we gave away lots of juice, some pancake mix, cheese, a pineapple, a few cartons of long life milk and various sundries at the end of the trip to a rasta pal we had befriended on St Vincent.
SVG is easy to get around even if you don't have a boat. There are ferries that go to every island, even Myreau, population 350, home to Dennis's Hideaway hotel and Robert Righteous and De Youth International Restaurant and Bar. This was probably my favorite spot and I'm glad that our buddy had taken another group of folks through SVG a couple of weeks before and sussed out the best spots. I had my heart set on visiting Mustique, a private enclave of the verrrry rich and famous (Mick Jagger has a place there) but the captain had checked it out and renamed it "Mistake" due to the $140US mooring fee (we generally paid $40EC on the other islands. The mooring fee is like a campground fee, you pay to tie up to the bouys in the harbour.) After mooring they went to the only public bar on the island and were ogled by the one other group in the bar who were obviously looking for "somebodies". The best "somebodies" in my opinion are the locals who have spent their lifetimes on the islands, making jobs for themselves and their families, making visitors feel not just welcome but a part of the lives of the islanders. I'd better stop, my husband will get upset that I've told you all THIS much about the place. It's magical really.


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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/2/2013 7:17:32 AM   
BeachBilly


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Thanks for info. I think that would just be a wonderful experience. I have only been sailing once and I loved it. It was just for a day and only in Hawaii

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/2/2013 11:14:50 AM   
travelon


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We have always wanted to visit Bequi (spl?) Now I've got the Grenadines fever again! Nice report and pics....Thanks!

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/4/2013 8:29:11 AM   
1runjuan


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looks awesome barata.
nice to have peeps in the know.

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/4/2013 3:02:16 PM   
CurlSnout


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Great!! Super report... and cracked up about the "galley slave" comment. Now we can all go with you next time :D

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/15/2013 9:02:38 PM   
barata


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Revisiting the pics, trying to drive away the post vacation blues.
Here are a few more:








Cheesecake:



Beefcake:
Another "boat boy" hooking us up to a mooring ball. This guy worked hard for his money, diving down to make sure things weren't going to break apart. The gals were VERY interested in this particular mooring, we had to watch the whole process. Closely.



Mayreau, my enchanted isle:



< Message edited by barata -- 3/15/2013 9:07:48 PM >


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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/16/2013 5:59:30 AM   
uphillklimber


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Was this a bareboat cruise, or did you have a crew? Was the boatboy only there for mooring purposes in the harbor?


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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/16/2013 2:06:30 PM   
barata


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This was a bareboat charter. Unlike the BVI's, when you'd pull into harbour in the Grendadines there was always someone - or some two - waiting in a small motorboat to guide you to a mooring ball. Sometimes they would own the mooring balls themselves and in some cases a hotel or restaurant would own the bouy and the boat boy would collect the fee for them. We generally paid $40 - $50 EC ($15 - $20 US) For some reason Union Is was $80 EC. Cheap in comparison to BVI's as was everything.
The boat boys are entreprenuerial spirits who have created their own jobs. Some come by with ice or vegies or t-shirts or bread for sale, others are only there to help with mooring. Not that you NEED them to help, but like I said they've created their own jobs. Some we would tip, sometimes not. One gave us a recommendation for a restaurant, the Buccaneer, on Union Island and we said we'd give it a try. He was there when we showed up for dinner - I'm sure he got a free entree from the owners for the recommendation. Sides there were served family style and he joined us for dinner. We'd heard rumours of these guys being agressive but I can tell you all of the folks we met there were very friendly. If someone was riding you to buy something it was easy enough to turn them away with no hard feelings. Well, the baguette and croissant guy did try to spray us with his prop wash after we'd turned him down for the umpteenth time but other than that they were pretty friendly. Like the vendors in Mexico they are just trying to make a living - and the Vincies are way less in your face than the hawkers in Mexico.

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RE: St Vincent and the Grenadines - 3/16/2013 10:31:42 PM   
moonaround


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I'm loving this . What an experience and it is so beautiful. I would love a trip like this. Thank you for sharing.

< Message edited by moonaround -- 3/16/2013 10:32:22 PM >


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