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Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post Emily - 11/14/2005 6:30:57 PM
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debbi
Posts: 1920
Joined: 6/3/2005
From: East Bay SF
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It's amazing how busy life gets when you are back home. It's been crazy, and then with yet another hurricane we didn't feel it was a good time to be posting our trip report. This is a collaborative effort (2 eyes are better than 1). Also here is the link for our pictures on the website, which we posted awhile back, but has since been deleted. And for those of you who always say there is no such thing as a trip report that is too long, you asked for it! Hope you enjoy it.
The old saying, good things come to those who wait. We finally got our week credit from having to evacuate during Emily and are returning in February. This will be our first non-hurricane season trip to the Roo as we usually travel during the low season because it's less expensive and less crowded.
(Pictures, click here) http://zachandcharla.com/gallery/v/fda/Hurricane-Emily-July-14_-2005/
*note to the lady from San Rafael, if you read this, email me at debbi2000@sbcglobal.net
*note couple from San Mateo, email me at debbi2000@sbcglobal.net
Our Trip Begis:
7/12/05 We nearly miss our connecting flight due to a delay on the first one, but we arrive just in time to board our plane to Cancun, entire row to ourselves. Immigration was fast; we get the green light and off to get our rental car. We arrive in Akumal around 7PM at Luna Azul, there was a note waiting for us, the place was open with the key on the counter and we settle in for one night as we have to switch to another apartment the next day for the duration of our stay. We have dinner at La Cueva de Pescador, great to see Carlos, Ali (Carlos Son) & Carlos #2 (Mayan waiter). So glad to be back again. Frank tells Ali to put more lime and garlic in the guacamole. We meet Maggie from the Library and we ask if she is going to be at the LBV bash, which she is. We also run into someone we met the trip before and we are feeling like we are back home.
Next morning we prepare to move to the other condo, but it's not ready, the words "nothing happens fast in Mexico" flash though our minds, so we decide to go to Tulum to the San Francisco Market for necessities. $80 US and we walk out with 10 bags of groceries which includes cerveza and all the ingredients for Vodka Tonics for those lazy evenings in the condo. We also pick up a fresh whole roasted chicken, it was so good it became our dinner. By the evening we are settled and unpacked and relaxing with a beautiful view from our deck at the center of Half Moon Bay.
Next day 7/14 we see turtles in the water from our deck. We snorkel outside the condo in HMB, the water is clear and warm as usual, we see several turtles, and a huge spotted eagle ray, get some good underwater pictures. Make breakfast and relax getting ready for the LBV party. We receive our first Evacuation letter. In all the years we have been going to Akumal this was our first time to see one of these. We have been there when there were other hurricanes on the way and no one paid much attention, but that's another story. Have our favorite lunch at LBV; Botaneros, similar to Fajitas, served in a sectioned plate, beef and chicken seared with veggies, guacamole, salsa, re-fried black beans, melted cheese, and fresh tortillas…yum!
Arrive at LBV and see a couple, but we are not sure they are loco gringos, so we eat, then Jean (jhorne451) & fiancé Ryan arrive. Jean asks the other couple if they were LG's and of course we overhear and it all began from there. When we made introductions with Jean & Ryan, my husband Frank heard Ryan’s last name and asked if Ryan was related to a Ky Logston in Washington? He is in fact and it is his uncle who Frank worked with years ago…what a small world! UJ and his wife Sharan sit at our table; he is as funny in person as he is this forum. We also meet Craig in WI (Craig informs us this wasn't him, so who ever it was please let us know) and try to convince him that his teenage daughter should be allowed to learn how to drive a stick-shift with his rental car, as we had done one year for our daughter (just on the Akumal road). He wasn't going for it, but his daughter sure was. Also meet Iguana Mama, Alice & Chuck, Barney1, Travelmex (sp?), Summer, and Seababe. I know we met others but that is all I can recall.
We meet Gary & Kay and signed the board. Talk briefly about the Hurricane and where we should go, as we still had most of our vacation ahead of us. Karaoke starts and it is a hoot. Kim's friend Andrew gets up twice with his Led Zeppelin style singing. Things wind down and we are about ready to go when our friend Ali (Carlos son) from Cueva del Pescador shows up, so we naturally talk with him. We end up at the bar and he introduces us to Jamie, the owner of LBV. We have many questions for him and had a great time talking and joking. At one point I call him a "dork" and he kids me about saying things about him on the forum and what I might to say. So there you go Jamie I officially have! We leave finally at 2 AM which is a feat for me, as I usually turn in by 9 PM.
7/15/05 we woke up to our 2nd evacuation note, saying we must leave the next day, so we talk with our manager and she makes it sound like we might be able to stay depending on what category it was. We share that we had been through this before etc…so she agrees to let us stay, and asks us to check back at noon the following day. We had made a snorkeling date with Jean & Ryan and Kim & Andrew to meet at LBV so we could show them the turtles outside our condo on HMB. With the impending hurricane, Kim ended up trying to get a flight out so it was just Jean & Ryan. We snorkel one last time before the hurricane. Go to check our email and got a note from the company we booked our condo with stating that if we want to ride out the storm we can stay at Lol Ka'naab. We have dinner at Lol Ha and it seems business as usual, people snorkeling and having a good time.
7/16/05 Saturday, we breakfast at Turtle Bay, the Eggs Benedict are still great, then return and find the final note saying we have to go. Talk with the manager again, this time she is a bit frazzled, and asks us why we aren't gone yet. We remind her of what she had said the day before, but she said ‘you need to be out now.’ We discuss the email we received about staying at Lol Ka'naab, but she is emphatic that we not stay, so we have one of the locals in the office call and get us reservations in Valladolid, (we had recommendations for The El Meson). There is also another couple in the office trying to do the same thing. All that is left are a few rooms at Hotel Don Luis.
Pack and get on the road, hit the bank machine in Tulum where there is a long line. We help some French people who couldn’t read the instructions with their transaction. When we arrive in Valladolid we drive by the hotel, which is not the best, and decide to try to get a different one…but everything was indeed full. There are bus loads of tourists everywhere and we learn that we were very very lucky to have a room. So off we go to check out Valladolid.
First stop, Hotel El Meson for some lunch and something cold. Lovely courtyard dining and ceiling fans (thank God). We order chicken tacos, chicken in banana leaves, lime soup and rice. Everything is excellent including the service. We walk around the square and the evening cools off nicely. What a picturesque city! We stop off for some cerveza at Los Portales and watch bus loads of Italians and people from all over looking for rooms. We see a huge tour bus parallel park and crunch into a car and no one seems to even notice. Things are abuzz. We have an ice cream (coconut) from one of the vendors in the park…very good! Get back to our hotel around 9:30, where we sit and watch noisy kids in the pool. We learn that Valladolid did not know of the hurricane until the tourists flocked in.
7/17/05 Sunday, we get up and go to breakfast at a small café on the corner, Las Campanas. Have the omelet especial, 3 different salsas, tortillas, and an omelet with sausage, ham & cheese. Service is very slow but well worth the wait. Run into the couple (from San Mateo, CA) who booked the hotel with us in Akumal, and learn we are next door neighbors.
We meet two American engineers Ken & Michael from Texas who are in the area for about 9 months working on the local power plant. They speak fluent Spanish and refer us to their favorite places to eat. We hear and see vans with loudspeakers, circling the square telling people about the storm. When we go back to our motel room the maids are taping up all the ground floor units. They run out of tape, but we always carry a roll of duct tape in our dive bag (comes in handy) so we tape our own. There is a real buzz around, people busy, buying water, cerveza, rope, ice and candles. We decide to buy some more also. The storm is supposed to hit around 2 AM.
We go to dinner at Los Portales and see our friends from Texas. Everyone is talking about the hurricane, and they are not serving any alcohol. Most businesses are closed and the band doesn't play in the square. Our friends from Akumal next door to us say they went to one of the larger local markets and it was a zoo! Around 2:30 AM the wind starts to blow, we hear glass breaking, some trees falling, distant crashes, thunder aplenty and of course the electricity goes out. It gets very humid with all the windows taped shut, and it was so dark outside it was hard to see anything. Frank is out trying to video tape the storm, but after awhile he falls asleep with his sandals on, face down on the bed. The next morning I go outside and our neighbor's door is open. They are both sound asleep, she is on the bed curled up and he is in a hammock.
7/18/05 Monday, not much damage to see in town besides lots of glass broken, tree branches down and water flooded streets. The internet is closed and most businesses, no way of hearing how Akumal fared. We decide to try the road to Akumal around 11:30 and check it out. The roads aren't too bad, we dodge a lot of downed trees and power lines (actually drive over some smaller trees). People are already out chopping and hacking them up with machetes. Many palapa roofs damaged or just gone. We arrive at Tulum and the stop lights are out, lots of people out and about. From Tulum to Akumal most of the huge concrete power line towers are snapped in half. The metal ones look like twisted spaghetti. We finally get to Akumal and it is a mess. Trees down and uprooted, telephone wires, palapas gone, the road is cluttered with debris. We make it to our condo, driving past where the ocean clearly came over the road and tore it up. At Luna Azul there is glass, downspouts and palapas all over. We look at the beach and it is a mess, turtle eggs, palapas, glass…I want to cry. We can’t find our manager or anyone who knows where she is, not that we expected to this soon. We go back to town and talk with Carlos and gang at Cueva; they are quite a picture, all sitting around a small table amid the remains of their ruined palapa, and all drinking cerveza, saying they'll be open for dinner in a few days. We see Bart from Turtle Bay and he says he will be open for dinner. What optimism, and what a lot of work for everyone. We also talk with a family such as ourselves who can't find anyone to talk to about how we can help or what needs to be done. People are pretty much in a daze. Carlos tells us of going out to check a couple of houses for looters while the eye of the storm eye was over them. One house was on the beach and the door was open, so he and two women who went with him entered to make sure it was empty. He says he looked over his shoulder and saw a huge wave heading for the house and yelled “run” and the two women were at the truck before he got out the door, as he was closing the front door the wave was coming in the front. So, after having a cerveza with our friends we head back to Valladolid, first stop at the El Meson ($60 US) to see if they have any rooms yet and they do. What a difference! I can even smell bleach in the bathroom, it is heaven.
Next morning Tuesday we have breakfast at The El Meson and just relax enjoying being safe and comfortable. That evening we have dinner at Las Campanas, and see our two American friends.
7/20/05 Wednesday, after breakfast we go to the internet café, also try to call the manager of our condo, still can't get through. By 12:30 we are on the way to Merida, this looks like a real highway now. We check in at 3:30 PM at the Hotel Caribe which is in the same area as the Gran Hotel. $65 US a night. We walk around the main square where there is quite a crowd listening to a political speaker. We decide to eat at the Main Street Restaurant on Hidalgo Park. Check out the Gran Hotel with all its stained glass. Walk around and find a small store then go went back to the Main Street restaurant to sit and watch everything. We see a group of Mayan women selling macramé belts; they have their small children on their backs slung in the scarves they wear, which have so many uses.
Here in Merida I discovered a new favorite drink that I love called a Chelada. I had seen this a number of times but never knew what it was. It's served in a chilled glass with a salted rim, filled with ice, then lots of fresh squeezed lime juice and your choice of beer. These really hit the spot on hot days and if I wanted something stronger a shot of tequila goes nicely. I was able to sip on these, unlike cocktails which make me comatose too early in the day.
That evening we walk in the Plaza Grande, full of people. We happen on an act that looks like a Green Mother Earth. The girl is dressed and painted all in green, about 8 feet tall with fingers that look like long branches (standing on a covered bucket we learn) while a man behind her makes various jungle sounds on several instruments. We think she is a statue until someone put money in a large vase on the ground in front of her, at which time she moves her arms elaborately.
7/21/05 Thursday, we eat breakfast at our hotel. We go shopping and tour the Macay Art Museum. Stop for lunch at Amaro, excellent food and nice atmosphere with ceiling fans. Our waiter is named Dariel after one of the moons of Saturn. We are on the fourth floor of Hotel Caribe, which has a swimming pool and nice deck overlooking the city on 3 sides. Lightening storms all around that Frank films until he gets drenched by a cloudburst. We have dinner at Café Peon Contreras in a street converted to all courtyard dining. There is guitar music and many merchants with tables, lots of people. After dinner we share a carriage ride with another couple, Francisco & Guadalupe who speak no English. We follow the tree lined Paseo de Montejo with all its beautifully restored 19th century homes. It is a little sad to see in contrast the modern side of Merida with its big hotels like Hyatt etc.. Have a night cap and off to bed.
7/22/05 Friday, sleep in, check email, sounds like Akumal will be up and running by the weekend, still no word from our manager. We have a simple breakfast and head for Celestun to see the flamingos. We drive through many small towns; they all seem to have beautiful churches, town squares and cemeteries. Arrive in Celestun, drive over the bridge, see the boats on the left, continue on towards the beach and find the Hotel Maria del Carmen. We secure a room for $25.00 US, no phone, TV or AC, but ceiling fans – perfect! Get attacked by mosquitoes in the parking lot, go and check out the beach, fishing pier, working lighthouse and restaurants. Many locals selling handcrafts. Have some cerveza and buy some fresh roasted corn from a vendor, he peels it, dips a lime wedge in chili powder then rubs it all over the corn. It is very good, and only 10 pesos, have to try that one at home. Lot’s of locals vacationing here.
Have dinner at the restaurant with the huge palapa roof next door to our motel. It is excellent, I have the lobster, & Frank has the whole fried fish, tastes very fresh. The next morning we drive out to the bridge to charter a boat to see the flamingos. We feel the guides are a bit snotty, they don't seem to be interested that we want to go and say the cost is be $100.00 US, plus they have never heard of David Baccar (sp?). So we decide to go back to the beach as it only cost $30.00 US to go from there and the people are friendly.
We go with about 6 other people, all from Mexico, and see a huge colony of pelicans, then the flamingos. We have to get out of the boat and walk up to an inlet, quietly. There are maybe only 150 of them, because of Hurricane Emily. At one point our guide/boat driver goes full throttle toward the mangrove jungle, the bow of the boat is up so all we can see is jungle rushing towards us. At the last possible moment he throttles down and we glide into the smallest opening in the mangroves. This is reminiscent of the Disney jungle ride, we are expecting to see crocodiles any moment. We drift up to a small pier and walk on a wooden path to a cenote that is supposed to be clear and swim friendly, however it is brown due to the hurricane. The people with us say it looks like Coca Cola. We finally head back and check out around 1:30 PM and head for Ticul. We go towards Uman, then take 180 towards Merida, then Campeche to 261 towards Uxmal to Muna then 184 towards Chetumul then Ticul. We check into Hotel Plaza, and get an outside room which overlooks the square. We want to eat at Las Almendras but it is closed, the only restaurant open is across the street from our hotel, La Carmelita. The appetizers are good, I order beef tips, they are tough, Frank has the Mexican Plate, which is basically a skirt steak, also tough, served with a very thin black bean sauce, tortillas and pickled onions. We are surprised to see some locals order what looks like small plates of spaghetti out of a can (we suspect Chef Boy-R-Dee).
We check the internet, looks like Akumal has electricity. One thing we notice about Mexican hotels here, they all have hammock hooks built into the walls. About 2 AM we awake to five men singing along to their car stereo full blast. I keep thinking it would stop, but when it doesn't I put in my ear plugs. Frank likes the music.
7/24/05 Sunday, we have the hotel's continental breakfast, then walk in search of the handmade sandals this area is known for. A few blocks away we find THE large market. Tons of people, bicycle taxis, meat, produce, wares, you name it. Walk around trying to take everything in, can't help noticing we are the only Americans. Stop at a maker of leather shoes and the proprietor literally has me try on almost every pair he has trying to get one the right size. My husband thinks I am being picky, but they have to fit, right? Finally I find a pair and paid a whopping 1100 pesos, ($11.00 US). We also see signs all over advertising a local bullfight.
Heading out of town we take a wrong turn trying to find 184 South to Oxkutzcab, and end up in Dzan and drive through some avocado and lime orchards. We find our way at the end of this and drive onto Felipe Carrillo Puerto, through many small towns on the way. Next we take the 307 north to Tulum and finally back to Akumal. When we arrive we find most places open except for LBV and Cueva de Pescador (open the next day). We arrive at our condo and it looks okay, no electricity, but there is a nice breeze. No one in the manager’s office, but we find we have kept a key (what luck)… We eat dinner at Lol Ha, there are many people on the beach.
Next morning electricity comes on, our refrigerator plugged back in, it is nice to be able to fix our own hot tea. We have breakfast at Turtle Bay, then get a few groceries, notice the laundry is closed for 4 or 5 more days…darn I lost one bag of dirty clothes from the beginning of our trip in the trunk and it's really starting to reek. Dinner at Cueva, meet a nice Austrian couple, Michael and Kati who also had to evacuate and traveled the interior as well. We play cards with Ali and have the whole fried Hog Fish, very good.
7/26/05 Tuesday, we laze around, hand wash some clothes, check the internet, not working right now, get ice and some more food. Dinner at Lol Ha. Next morning breakfast in the condo then head off to Tulum to my favorite Jewelry Shop. Spend the day at El Paraiso Beach, lots of topless, which Frank pretends not to notice. We get the last two lounge chairs with partial shade of a very small palm tree, cost 250 pesos each (get there by 10AM if you want a lounge chair & shade). Buy a nice necklace from one of the vendors and just laze around for 3 to 4 hours in and out of the water.
Take Qroo's recommendation (thank you Kim) and eat at La Vita Bella next door, many Italians, nice beach in front. Have some excellent appetizers and dinner is great – highly recommend. Back to Akumal, check the internet, Frank goes to Cueva to wait; when I get there our Austrian friends are there and talk us into staying till midnight. Next morning stayed in the condo and make breakfast. We go out on our deck to have our tea and I think for a minute we are at the Tulum beach as there are three topless sunbathers' front and center. It ruins my view, but Frank doesn't seem to mind. Frank’s note here: “I told her not to look.” We read all day then had dinner at La Lunita, it is very good, but a little high, $80.00 US with tip. Frank & I feel sunburned and wake up hurting, which is unusual because Frank doesn’t burn often.
7/29/05 Friday, late breakfast at Turtle Bay, then back to condo. Decide to snorkel in Akumal Bay. See a huge loggerhead and a smaller one, and a small barracuda only 3 feet long today. Dinner at Cueva meet our Austrian friends again, it's their last day so stay until midnight again. One interesting note about Cueva de Pescador staff who we have come to know and love. If it gets a little slow the guys like to get off by 9:00 PM and do their thing (which we won’t go into here). We have given them a hard time about this on many occasions, and talked them into staying open, and they have always had more business as a result. On the nights they closed, if we wanted to stay longer they literally left an ice bucket full of beer, pitcher of margaritas or whatever you wanted. Only down side, if there's no breeze, they don't leave the fans on. Next morning go to Tulum to the jewelry shop again, Lunch at Charlie’s in Tulum, which is very good as usual, then to the SF market and dinner at LBV which is officially open.
7/31/05 Sunday, 9 AM go fishing three hours. Frank catches a large and a medium barracuda. Very interesting to see the bay from the ocean side. Dinner at Pescador to try barracuda which I have successfully avoided till now. We have it three ways; with cream sauce which is my favorite, garlic butter which is also good, and Veracruz cooked in foil with veggies. Meet a couple from Florida, Elaine and Joe who actually knew Nicole, OJ's wife when they were just dating…what a small world.
8/1/05 Monday, our last full day, breakfast in the condo, not much of a breeze today. Snorkel in HMB see a very large Permit Fish, had never seen one of these before, large teeth. We tell some people nearby and they had seen two together that day. Meet a woman from San Rafael who is writing a book. She has been in the area for 5 weeks and ended up evacuating to Palenque then Guatemala. When we go to leave we discover we have a flat tire. Angel, one of the local managers insists on helping us even though he is on his way home, very nice. Stop by Pescador to say goodbye. I gave Ali a bad time about there not being any of the shirts for sale like he was wearing, so he gives me his shirt and we give him our stainless beer bottle holder/cooler. He really likes that. Frank plays dominos with the guys then we are off to have a last one at LBV. We have dinner and say goodbye to Red and Jamie.
8/2/05 Tuesday, get up, pack, coffee at Turtle Bay, pick up Maggie from the library and are on the road by 10 AM. No line at the airport…that's a first. Have lunch in the airport then off to SF via Atlanta. Customs was easy and fast. That's it – three weeks in the ROO.
< Message edited by debbi2000 -- 1/28/2006 10:40:17 PM >
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/14/2005 7:11:21 PM
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debbi
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It is so fun to share, and we really did have the time of our lives travelling. Glad you liked it.
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/14/2005 7:26:45 PM
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debbi
Posts: 1920
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It's a date Kim, can't wait, and glad you liked the report. One of the reasons it took so long is Frank wanted his 2 cents worth and he is never home, always on the road. Good things come to those who wait.
Thankyou coffeegrounded glad you liked it also.
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/14/2005 8:39:57 PM
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Iguana Mama
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Thanks for the trip report--and it was nice meeting you at LBV. Emily gave you a little detour, but even with all of that going on, it sounds like an interesting trip!
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May you be in Heaven two hours before the Devil knows you're dead.
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/14/2005 10:14:06 PM
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jhorne451
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Great report Debbie! Your adventure through the interior sounded like so much fun. You've officially made me want to go back!
Jean
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/14/2005 10:17:01 PM
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jhorne451
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Hey QRoo! I know, I have been so crazy busy with school, I haven't been on here in so long. I will be posting my own trip report over xmas break. I definitely hope to see you guys again in the Roo!
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/14/2005 11:59:14 PM
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debbi
Posts: 1920
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From: East Bay SF
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Qroo, 1 and 1 make 2, and that's what I thought when I saw you & Andrew, two people, couple or not...don't panic.
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/15/2005 1:22:06 AM
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debbi
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From: East Bay SF
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I figured so, just trying to be funny.
Wow the web cam sure stirred up alot of comments.
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/15/2005 7:43:41 AM
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barney1
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Debbi,
Thank you for your report.
It was worth the wait!
It is interesting to me the contrasts of how everyone reacted during Emily.
I'm glad that you and Frank were able to go on with your vacation and enjoy the time you had there.
I was able to talk with Frank a bit at the LBV party and was glad for you guys
being able to see so many turtles at HMB.
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/15/2005 10:16:21 AM
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debbi
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Barney - It's nice to actually meet people and to be able to put a face with their words isn't it? That's why I like this forum, lots of great people out there from all over.
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/15/2005 12:07:09 PM
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debbi
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From: East Bay SF
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Kim, did you get my last email?
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/15/2005 12:36:33 PM
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debbi
Posts: 1920
Joined: 6/3/2005
From: East Bay SF
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Well now I am confused, but then I did meet alot of people during those few hours. Maybe that person will let me know. Glad you enjoyed the report.
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/15/2005 1:35:25 PM
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Stacie
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thanks for bumping...good idea! I had missed it! Great report!!!
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www.vidas.org when was the last time you vacationed with a purpose?
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/15/2005 10:52:50 PM
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Rose
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Incredible trip report Debbie and Frank. Sounds as though you had a fabulous time exploring Colonial Mexico and love the pics of the flamingos. We loved Valladolid, but only had a few hours there - I really want to visit Merida.
Thanks for posting and don't forget, we're going snooping in Feb!!!
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I left my heart in Buenos Aires AGAIN.
November 8th - St.Lucia here we come!
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RE: Finally….Frank & Debbi's Trip Report pre & post E... - 11/16/2005 7:39:27 AM
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barney1
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Debbi,
I just found your photo gallery.
I missed it first time through.
Great shots.
Thanks again.
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| |
Printable Version
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