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ABR Nov, 2012 - FINISHED - 1/26/2013 2:11:12 PM
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gerber
Posts: 815
Joined: 1/22/2009
From: Alberta
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I think I'll upload all of the underwater pictures at the end. The camera kept re-setting the date and so I don't have them organized chronologically.
Nov 17
First day not too much to say. 2 wedding parties on the plane. Bought drinks for the couples. Had a few ourselves... For some reason that seemed to be the shortest trip to CUN ever. Ha. A co-worker on the plane (going to one of the weddings) told me later that that flight ran out of most types of alcohol. It was a seriously crazy trip.
USA transfers was waiting for us. We had a car this time, which was unusual. For some reason we've always had vans which seemed a bit much for just us two. The car was nice.
Easy checkin at ABR, got the 3rd floor of building 5 as requested, for the 3rd time now.
Buffet was alright. Keith thought it was fantastic, but he's easily impressed with everything on the first day of vacation.
I had an early night and Keith wasn't too far behind. This was the only time I remember actually wishing we weren't in building 5 as the bar was super loud until just after 10:30. Hard to go to bed early with that noise. But it's never been a problem before because we don't usually go to bed early. Even with earplugs it sounded like they were in the next room. Cest la vie.
< Message edited by gerber -- 2/10/2013 10:32:03 PM >
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/26/2013 2:22:07 PM
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gerber
Posts: 815
Joined: 1/22/2009
From: Alberta
Status: offline
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Nov 18
Sunday was just a beach day. Somewhat cloudy most of the day, but alright. I snorkeled around 8 am, which was awesome, and again around 3 pm, which was super crowded. Not my favorite time to go out, but still enjoyable. The water has been colder for sure - glad I had my shortie wetsuit. Didn't use it at 8 am and I found it quite cold.
Snorkel mask face:
Sunscreen from Chomak (we do carryon and liquids are an issue), glad to be able to find a few biodegradable ones we've liked before. Bottle of Kahlua, just before the Sunday 5 pm cut off. Also some Raid for the little ants in the room (actually didn't really need it, but you never know when you have a bottle of Kahlua.) Across the way to buy some handblown green edged shotglasses and we're set for the 11 days.
Ran into a few LG'ers. Waterbaby, gmadeb, FinsUp, Seagoat. We had met FinsUp a few years ago when greekbeachgirl was here. I had met Seagoat earlier in Calgary, so there were a few familiar faces other than the bar staff.
Keith has been doing a Movember thing, growing a moustache and he just couldn't handle it anymore. Tired of meeting people and feeling like a knob. He actually shaved it off before dinner but said he'd go back to growing it so he isn't too busted when he gets back to work on the 29th. He was just so happy to get that off his face. Thrilled, really.
Dinner at Cueva Del Pescadore. We shared one lime soup and one (single) seafood medley plate, which was definitely enough for us. No mariachi's or other entertainment, until we heard a creature up in a tree. It appeared to be a coati, but it wasn't making coati noises and it wasn't in a pack. Just crunching on a branch. Keith shone his little maglight flashlight and we all realized it was a little anteater. He was quite the celebrity since no one there had ever seen one. And there were lots of people who have been around a LOT. So that was pretty cool. Didn't think I'd get a good picture in that light with all the branches in the way. Shoulda tried, though.
We often substitute octopus for the fish in this dish. This time we got chunks of a bigger octopus rather than tentacles of a smaller one. Tasted awesome.
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/26/2013 3:04:25 PM
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gerber
Posts: 815
Joined: 1/22/2009
From: Alberta
Status: offline
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Monday was a Tulum beach crawl. Gorgeous weather.
First I started with a morning snorkel, which was lovely. Then we went to walk out to the colectivo. Of course the cab drivers offered to take us for 200 pesos, but instead we paid 70 pesos to take a colectivo to the San Francisco store and then 90 pesos for a cab from there to Om. We have had cabs at ABR offer to take us for 100 pesos in the past. I guess it depends on how bored they are. 100 pesos would be super cheap. 200 isn't bad, really, but the colectivo can often be a fun experience. Usually, anyway. This one ride was pretty scary. The driver was going between 140 and 150 km/hour, following WAY too close behind other drivers, checking his change and eating pumpkin seeds. Eeek.
About Tulum, I gotta say, that place is like a little slice of heaven for us. Just magical. It's a lot of fun to do with other people, but it's a different experience. With just us two, it's super romantic. Add cocktails and yeah, it was a great day.
Starting to get silly I think. I had to edit out a LOT of silly pictures from that day!!
There was a photo shoot for something going on. I bet that happens a lot. Not a lot of places more beautiful than Tulum beach.
I wonder how many pictures have been taken of this seat?
Obligatory, yummy mojito at La Zebra:
It's a really hippy vibe on Tulum beach:
Ran into Hallnass, Turdle and Jackson. I guess Lucy was sleeping somewhere and Jackson wasn't quite as kissy as when we met last.
This guy had amazing skills! Yes, we gave him a few pesos. 
Bonus silly people in the background:
Stick 'em up!
Had a couple at Om, mojitos at La Zebra, and a couple of fresh strawberry margs at Villa los Estrella (plus their lovely crunchy octopus).
My honey at Villa Los Estrella. Nobody ever talks about this place but it is one of my favorites. Super chill, great food and drinks.
The famous crunch octopus:
Like a little picnic on the beach:
We went some place after that, but honestly it's pretty fuzzy by that point. I think I'll have to look at the pictures later to jog my mind. That's terrible, isn't it? Yeah, we were having a good time. Played in the waves some, took some goofy pictures. And drank.
2 super cute little girls came by at one point selling colorful knotted bracelets. The one little girl was seriously maybe 4, I think. Now that's just not fair. I mean how DO you say no? Even when it's 100 pesos per bracelet. I had to. Bought one. Took a picture of the little girl who then asked for a tip. Hmmm. With no bills under 100 at that point I had to say no. She did get 100 pesos for the thing, with no haggling (who would haggle with a 4 year old, really??). Way overpaid but that'll happen.
Then 2 young women went by selling light cotton coverups. Turns out they're from Argentina and they made them and I guess that's how they're funding their travels. I'm quite sure we overpaid again, but hey, it was a good story and the dresses were cute. Printed on the back of the dress is "Otro mundo es posible." They have a blogspot something like mundopossible@blogspot.com or possiblemundo@blogspot.com. I'll have to remember to check that out. (can't find it now)
Ahhhhhh!!
Estrella one of my favorite places:
I love pelicans:
This part of the day started to get a bit fuzzy.
Buffet for dinner, Mr. Akumal afterwards and off to bed.
It's hard to get anything to dry in the room this trip since we haven't had the air conditioning on. It's just not been warm enough to need it.
< Message edited by gerber -- 1/26/2013 3:13:14 PM >
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/26/2013 3:29:24 PM
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gerber
Posts: 815
Joined: 1/22/2009
From: Alberta
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Tuesday Nov 20
Another recuperating beach day.
Today was pretty cloudy and actually cool. Some people were in bathing suits, but I've never seen so many people in long sleeves or sweaters. Pretty much everyone at night has been bundled up. No mosquitos as we were warned about, but it certainly is cooler than previous trips.
I've been getting up at 6 am to get our favorite palapa and because I love the sunrise (no, I don't plant towels and go back to bed), but this morning it was actually gone at 6. As was our next favorite. Hey, life can be so harsh some days, eh? I was surprised how many people were up early. It definitely wasn't the case every day. I didn't snorkel today since it was just too cloudy. Keith actually got a bit of a burn even in the cloud.
Our usual breakfasts:
Some guy with a metal detector in the water, looking for treasure:
When the snorkel tours arrive, you don't want to be in the water. Just way too crowded in the places I like to go:
Kids taking a closer look:
Walked up to Lol Ha to get a wifi signal to check in with my Dad (he's very ill and we weren't even sure if we were going to be able to go on our trip).
Webcam from the other direction:
Wandered over to the pueblo for Naty's chicken but 3 pm is obviously too late as it was closed up. Went to Ultimo Maya instead and had good ceviche and ok shrimp tacos (Gynnak set the bar too high and now nothing else compares).
We are curious about the amount of garbage everywhere in the pueblo. It's not like there isn't a lot of garbage by the roads in Mexico, but to have so much in town, beside your home, in front of your business...? In every part of the town that could be pretty, there is garbage. It's just hard to understand. It's not really IN the homes or businesses but it is almost everywhere else. Maybe there isn't reliable garbage collection/disposal? Even so, you'd think people would pick up and bag it and put it somewhere? Not everywhere in Mexico is like this, but Akumal pueblo, as much as we like to visit, is pretty depressing with it's garbage. Sad.
Waited out some rain and walked back across the highway. Waved at family from the webcam a bit and then too Moonrise for a drink.
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/27/2013 7:59:13 AM
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Jamie
Posts: 2548
Joined: 3/10/2005
From: Southern California
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Wonderful pictures, thanks for taking the time. Sorry you felt bad part of the time and hope your Dad is better now. The menu for El Ultimo Mayo looks really good, have to get over to the pueblo next trip, never been except once to a Dr. there.
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/27/2013 12:20:43 PM
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KAFOKA
Posts: 4658
Joined: 4/1/2005
From: MASS
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Thanks for the fun report...and your photos are some of the best I've seen on here...you have a great eye...!
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/27/2013 1:24:06 PM
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gerber
Posts: 815
Joined: 1/22/2009
From: Alberta
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Glad someone is enjoying it! I guess any trip report is better than no trip report and if there's picture, even better, eh? The land camera we travel with is a Canon SX 200 IS. More features than a lot of point and shoots and we do like Canons.
Dad won't get better but he's still with us for now and we weren't expecting that he would be. We're going back to Akumal in a few months and we did get travel insurance this time. It's tough, for sure.
24th
Still not feeling great but I got up at 5:15 to be down at the beach for 5:30 to get our favorite palapa. Looked like I didn't need to rush but by then I was already up and I don't get back to sleep. Took some sunrise shots, read my book and just enjoyed the solitude for a few hours. When I'm feeling well it is really one of the best times of the day for me.
Turned out to be a pretty cloudy day so I didn't bother snorkeling - no light, not great visibility.
Watched a little agouti behind the snack bar and he seemed a little territorial and not too impressed with the cats. Came over, scared them off and left. I rarely see them this close.
Around 9 we gave our palapa over to a family with a small child hanging out in the hammocks and went to Tulum.
Took the colectivo to the end of the line - mid Tulum at the Mixik (sp?) store. Keith loves that place on the beach road so he was pleased to see another shop in the pueblo. Such cool stuff.
Kept wandering south until we hit El Camillo Jr for lunch. Not that we were actually hungry yet, but it was one of those places we wanted to try. Lots of locals. A couple of families. Strange bathrooms (shower stall included, but no toilet seat), good prices, really good food and large portions. We'd definitely recommend and go back.
Wandered back north with our mapchick map. Checked out the market district. Not much there really. Went to the town square. That was pretty nice. Not elaborate, but clean, recently painted and nice.
Okay - this guy - not so clean:
Went into a nice looking restaurant that advertised free wifi so K ordered a beer (I'm still on water) but the wifi wasn't working. Interestingly, though, our waiter was the same we had had in May at La Bistro in Tulum. George is super friendly and loves to practice his English. At that point we had eaten at 3 places in Tulum over 6 months and two of them had the same waiter. So bizarre. He didn't recognize us but we certainly remembered him.
By now we had missed a portion of main street (by going through the market district) and so we headed back south again. We found a couple painted clay Christmas ornaments we had to have but most of the wares are the same as everywhere: sarongs, beer t-shirts, shooter glasses, pipes, silver jewelry, hats, bags and cheap clay goods. Some had nice ceramics, but we don't have the room as nice as they were.
I guess you learn to not really look at things unless you want the shopkeeper to try to pull you in. It's not near as bad as Playa del Carmen, don't get me wrong (we would do anything to avoid Playa), but some shop owners were aggressive. Anyway, as we passed one, the shopkeeper held out his hand to me. I gave him a smile and went to pass him. He looked at me, almost wounded, as if to say, "Seniorita, I just wanted to shake your hand." Guiltily I went to shake his hand. He held on so tight and started actually pulling me towards his store! I'm actually getting mad thinking about it. Such tactics. Grrr. I just stopped, looked at him and said, "Don't. Don't!" He let go.
We wound up at another place on the West side of the street that had wifi (checking in with my dad and family) and paid 50 pesos for a beer, coke and complimentary bruschetta appetizers made in a wood burning oven. Amazing, full of garlic. We tipped well. :)
Here's the place with the BEST bruschetta:
Oh, so good!
Crappy picture, but here's the wood burning oven:
Super cheap!
By now we were debating. We had planned to get a cab and go to Chamico's on Solimon Bay on the way back but it was 3 pm and we were stuffed. I had hardly eaten my small shrimp cocktail at Camillo's and had only had one bite of the bruschetta. It seemed like a waste to go to Chamico's and not really appreciate, or even finish dinner. Sadly we passed on it. It is one of our favorite places to eat.
Instead we decided to walk North out of town. There is a nice windy path on the East side of the 307 highway that looks pretty new so we walked as far as it went which was at the ruins. Nice long walk. Took a colectivo back to the resort.
The long and winding road:
It sounded a bit louder around the resort as more people arrived, but the whole "locals filling the resort for the weekend" thing didn't seem to materialize. Maybe it's not so prevalent in November as it was in October?
Back "home" we decided to try Loncheria for dinner. We arrived at 8 and it closes at 9 so that worked out ok. The server wasn't the best... I guess there was a TV show she was watching and customers were inconvenient. Anyway, food was good. Poc Chuk and beef Tampiquena good as usual. I still had hardly anything but it's good food.
Poor pictures of great food. Beef tampiquena:
Poc Chuc (chuk?)
Early night.
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/27/2013 1:38:25 PM
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gerber
Posts: 815
Joined: 1/22/2009
From: Alberta
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Lovely, Lovely beach day.
I let K plant towels at 5:30 again and really we didn't do much. Yeah, yeah, planting towels. But everyone's doing it! No, you don't have to do it quite that early, I have to say. Not on most days for sure.
Checked email and Dad is definitely feeling less well. That's so hard. But he did make it clear just a couple days ago that he wants us to be here and enjoy it. My aunt is with him and she tells us that he wouldn't be happy with a bunch of people around anyway. So... she keeps him company until they really need us, is the plan. And then... we go...
But we're not there yet, and so we take this vacation as a way to strengthen our resources for when we're needed.
(written in January - my Aunt, brother and I are taking turns going to spend a few weeks at a time at Dad's so he's not alone).
I don't like writing about this but it's really an important part of what made this trip so different.
So, we took the day and relaxed.
We went up to Lol ha around 10 am to try to do a webcam thing for Dad, but I don't think he checked his email and I doubt he saw it. Tried, anyway. Funny thing was, we ordered a beer and a margarita at Lol Ha to get the daily wifi password and it turns out it hadn't changed from days ago when we were there last. Didn't actually need drinks.
Back at ABR we really did nothing. There was a group of 3 people near us feeding the fish and at one point when they tried to show us their lovely trick of attracting the permits, I gently (I hope) admonished them not to. Whatevs.
Discovered that strawberry daquiri's are much better for me than margaritas right now. I don't think my stomach likes tequila (at least what they serve most places) or lime. Good to know!
But yeah. Didn't do much. Felt so much better today, though! Seriously it feels like I've really only been her to enjoy the vacation 2 days at most - Tulum beach crawl day and today. The other days, I've enjoyed some stuff and wished I could just go home lots. Today was good. Sheesh. Finally.
Went back to Pescadore's for dinner. Had lime soup to start. Keith had shrimp and beef brochette which looked small but was pretty meaty and very good. I asked about ceviche which isn't on the menu (why?). Yes, as I've had before, they have ceviche. I was offered mixed but I asked for conch instead. Love that stuff.
Coupla glasses of wine and then the anteater made his appearance. Of course the little maglite was handy and a crowd gathered. Got some pics this time which was awesome. Amazing food, ambiance and entertainment. Perfect.
Isn't he cute?
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/27/2013 2:09:38 PM
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gerber
Posts: 815
Joined: 1/22/2009
From: Alberta
Status: offline
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Running out of time! 2 full days left is all.
I got up at 5:17 am (for some reason before the alarm) and was down at the beach as the sun rose at 5:30. Great time of day. Other palapas weren't taken until 6:00, 7:00, even 8:00, but I do love that time of day. Coffee at the main bar at 6 am for the most part. Check email in the lobby around then. Perfect.
Met another couple on the beach who had never been to ABR before but had arrived the night before and seemed pretty excited after being at the Palladium previously. After breakfast Randy said that he figured out that I was the writer of trip reports he had enjoyed and that eventhough they'd never stayed at ABR before they felt very familiar because of reading my reports. Awwww. Randy, if you're reading this - you totally made my day. Ok, and in my next breath - YOU SUCK. Now I can't slack off. Now I have to live up to this standard. Thanks so much. :)
Snorkel around 8 am which is perfect if the sun is nice. At that time of day you don't have to worry too much about burning, the sun is alright for seeing the viewscreen on your camera and the tour groups havent arrived in force yet. My favorite time of day to snorkel now.
Southern stingray on the way out. Usual suspects for the most part when I was out... except I saw a couple trumpet fish which I hadn't seen in a few trips and an eel which I just couldn't get the camera ready for in time. Couple turtles on the way in as seems usual these days and it was a pretty nice snorkel trip.
Gorgeous, day again. So beautiful. Fun people watching. Good drinks. Hey, I REALLY do not want to go home now.
Someone was doing a little photo shoot on the beach. Everyone seemed to get a kick out of watching. Her husband was directing a lot of it. I think he figured she was a bit of a trophy. Entertaining. I'm such a creeper for taking pictures of it!
We rented a golf cart from Marcelo ("Marsello," not "Marchello" by way of pronounciation) for just a half day today. It's awesome that now when he sees Keith coming he shouts out our last name. Kinda fun. I guess most people don't tip him, but Keith tips pretty much everyone.
Some of the places I'm sure you could rent on HMB. Or maybe some are private residences? Not entirely sure about all of them. Enjoyable sightseeing.
Then to LBV
La Buena Vida was my happy place today. I've been waiting, watching, holding my camera with the right settings for hours, days it seems, waiting for the right pelican pictures. And they always seem to come by right, seconds after, I've given up on them. Anyway today LBV was pelican CENTRAL. Just awesome. Perfect.
Off down the road...
We didn't stop at Gynnak this time. But this is what it looks like as you drive by:
Next we went to La Lunita. I'm glad we gave them another chance this trip. We had been disappointed a few years ago we got some (seemingly) watered down cocktails. Their negro Modelo is obviously fine and their margaritas are just as good. My stomach is sooooo much better today. They also have an awesome, gourmet menu. Duck taco's? I would LOVE to try everything there but we did have a few things and they did not disappoint. Very impressed and cool bathrooms didn't hurt the impression! Oh, and I kept my shirt on this time. 
Making coco loco's:
What looks like a massive, out of place evergreen at the North end of HMB:
Where you park your golf cart right North of La Lunita if you're going to walk into the bay for a snorkel.
Looks like they're starting to build something on the left side of the path. Hope the path doesn't disappear...
Where you can sit on the beach:
When we got back to Akumal we decided to buy a few things. A couple things at Mexicarte for the daughters, a mug at Gallery Lamanai for Dad for Christmas and a really cool painted metal armadillo for us at Lamanai that we had been thinking about since last May. It's definitely an upscale store and we had never bought anything there before, but everything is just so unique and beautiful. Love that place.
We finally hit the A La Carte for dinner and it did not disappoint. Such good food. We even ordered a bottle of wine since they had a chilean carmeniere. What a treat. Actually a good thing I didn't get that at the beginning of the trip or I would have been spoiled. I still have a little bit here beside me as I type and it's sooooo good.
Night.
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/27/2013 3:02:34 PM
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Jamie
Posts: 2548
Joined: 3/10/2005
From: Southern California
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So sorry to hear your father will not get better.
Your pictures are wonderful and I am really enjoying them along with your report.
That Poc Chuc at the Loncheria looks terrific, I love the stuff and have had it in the past at the Lol-Ha but for some reason it is no longer on their menu, so good to know the Loncheria has it. Thanks
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RE: ABR Nov, 2012 - 1/27/2013 5:02:37 PM
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gerber
Posts: 815
Joined: 1/22/2009
From: Alberta
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27th
Our last full day on the resort was pretty decent. We only had a couple hours of sun in the morning - enough for one snorkel and then the rest of the day was lightly cloudy and warm. Over the 10 days we have definitely noticed an improvement in the weather - it was just so cold when we arrived.
Someone else made this - cool!
Permits swimming close enough to bump into you because people feed them:
The resort was super quiet. You could have got a palapa any time of the day as I don't think they were ever full. Timhy at Moonrise said there were 250 guests and if that was the case, I have no idea where they were all hiding. No one at the pool either.
On Monday I had asked Timhy about a coco loco drink. The Animacion staff does make them on the beach on Fridays but it's at like 10 am, which is way too early (ok about an hour too early) for me. Anyway, he promised he would get a coconut for me to have today. He did deliver - one coco loco. Turns out it's not really my favorite, but who doesn't feel special sitting on the beach with the only coco loco around?
Collecting shells to take pictures. Make work project.
Finished product:
Could be a nice Facebook background picture thingy...
Growing back the 'stache..
I love clouds!
We've really started noticing some changes at the North end of the resort. Art that hung on the wall by the old pool and in the old Italian restaurant have been removed. Light fixtures outside the old restaurant are going. Glass walls on the old "Relaxing Area" are gone. Stairs up to the bathroom beside the old pool are being chipped away. Rock walls behind that are being torn down. I did finally introduce myself to Alejandro (food services mgr?) at Moonrise and asked him if buildings 1 and 2 were coming down and he confirmed, but didn't know when, or what would be going up instead, just that the owners know and no one else seems to. There seems to be a lot more going on than just those two buildings, though. Major reno's to some of those areas would be awesome as it just seems a waste for some of the spaces to not even be in use.
Stuff getting run down and changed...:
Such a lovely building.. Well it was:
We had never seen so many beds in the massage hut before!
I love Timhy:
I think this one was saved...
We walked up to Super Chomak in the late afternoon for a couple new sarongs for me, and then Mexicarte for another Christmas present for one daughter. Got caught in the rain but it didn't last long.
We love this place behind Lol Ha. Pretty expensive, but some beautiful things. We did actually buy a couple things there this trip:
Also behind Lol Ha:
Poor picture of Mexicarte where we ALWAYS buy a few things:
Loncheria
Walking back down the beach we passed a couple and the man said, "Did you hear?? They're doing a turtle hatchling release at 5:30 at CEA." I would say he was pretty much vibrating with excitement and that's an infectious thing. It was super tempting, but we were running out of time and didn't know how long the thing at CEA would take. We passed on it. When we ran into him later that night he was fairly glowing about the event, which he said lasted only about 10 minutes. Maybe next year. It was sure nice of him to tell us, though.
Did most of our packing before dinner, which was the Italian a la Carte. Dinner was fantastic as usual. We definitely could have eaten there often if not always to make me happy. Keith needs me to interject here that he never had any problem with the buffet. While the choices are limited, they were limited to things he enjoyed.
Again, had a bottle of the Carmeniere and off to bed. We have been so tired this last vacation that we watched only one show, which isn't usual.
Bit of a tan:
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